Related Information:
Annual Report of the Director, Vol V. p. 3123. January, 1920

The traditional feminine dress that defines the ethnic identity of the Cuna includes the handmade blouse, worn with a skirt of printed commercial cloth, traditional necklaces and bracelets on arms and legs, and headscarves. This blouse, called a mola, began to be made at the end of the 19th century, when the designs that were previously used as body paint began to be executed in handwoven cloth and then gradually in trade cloth. The bodice panels are made of reverse appliqué: layers of cloth are basted together and a pattern is drawn on top. The woman cuts down to the desired color, turning back and hand-sewing around the opening with matching thread, and embellishing with embroidery and further appliqué and reverse appliqué. Motifs of animals, plants, fish and birds are taken from daily life or other images of helicopters, cars, boats and famous personages may be incorporated.

"Mr. G. L. Fitz-William, chemical and mining engineer of Hammond, Indiana, presented the Museum with an important ethnographical collection from the San Blas Indians, whom he had visited and studied. At the donor's request, the this collection is to be named in honor of his son, "William Fitz-William Collection." The material is an excellent and representative collection from a very interesting tribe on the Isthmus of Panama. While not far removed from contact with civilization, this people preserves its aboriginality and particularly its purity of blood tenaciously. While they have been much brought into the light of publicity of late, the San Blas are seldom visited, and their specimens are rarely seen in museums. The most interesting part of the collection consists of women's garments, which are composed of many layers of bright colored cloths cut out in characteristic designs."

Annual Report of the Director, Vol V, p 313. Jan. 1920